* An emulsifying agent that penetrates the skin
Lecithin is a natural emulsifying agent and one of the most important components of cells. It is a naturally occuring mixture of the diglycerides of stearic, palmitic and oleic acids, linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid and plays an important role in a cell's metabolism, especially regarding membrane penetration and has been used as a surfactant in cosmetics. Lecithin's use in cosmetics was previously limited because of its oxidation and instability against heat, however, Hydrogenated Lecithin (Lecithin with the addition of hydrogen) has all the good qualities of natural lecithin, yet its stability is greatly improved. Lecithin improves the homeostatasis of the skin ( ).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Although Hydrogenated Lecithin has been given the GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) rating by the FDA, there are some concerns over its carcinogenic properties and its ability to penetrate the skin. Although this ability allows it to be an effective product ingredient, it needs to be used with caution concerning the other ingredients in the product. It has the ability to deposit harmful chemicals below the skin if used in high concentrations. Therefore, Hydrogenated Lecithin is considered safe in concentrations up to 15% ( National Institutes of Health ).
Recommended Products w/ Hydrogenated Lecithin:
Kronos Phyx Overnight Repair Masque , Shiseido Bio Performance Super Restoring Cream , Artistry Time Defiance Day Protect Crème with SPF 15 , Vinita Rejuvenating Elixir with Bhasma of Gold, Diamond and Pearl , Azures Hydropeptide Cellular Transformation Growth Serum